An unlikely scenario occurred on the Broadway Strip in North Beach this past weekend: it was exceedingly uneventful for the Central Police Station.
This uncommon weekend only held one reported incident according to police officer Mark Alvarez. On Friday night between 1:30 a.m. and 2 a.m. there was a radio broadcast of a large fight involving many people in front of Cable Car Pizza. However, the fight had dissolved by the time the police arrived; Saturday posed no problems at all on Broadway.
“I would say about 48 out of 52 weekends are problematic year-round on Broadway,” Alvarez said.
The Entertainment Commission usually gives some sort of attention to North Beach each meeting, if not just the Broadway Strip in regards to reviewing, reporting or approving certain after-hours adult businesses that line the street.
Merchants and residents alike also noticed the violence that erupts on the weekends. Kathleen Dooley a former storefront owner in North Beach is involved with a new group of Broadway merchants who are aiming to clean-up the violence.
“It will not be an easy task,” said Dooley. “The Entertainment Commission, with so many members being paid promoters for the industry, tends to look the other way when it comes to out-of-control clubs. The battle on Broadway is between the strip club owners—one company owns all the strip clubs but one—and the clubs that promote hip-hop events which are attracting a very violent crowd.”
According to Alvarez, the Strip itself requires a lot of police resources because of the amount of people from the North, South and East not just San Francisco.
“You get several thousand people together you’re going to have a problem, especially if you mix liquor and testosterone,” Alvarez said. “We have a lot of fist fights involving young males. Young people don’t understand the potency of the alcohol; they end up unconscious and have to be taken away in ambulances.”
According to Alvarez there is a zero tolerance policy. The police are often investigating nightclubs on the Strip for overcrowding, which can lead to fatal disasters involving such things as fire codes.
Most recently, police closed down Heaven Mini Theater, an adult entertainment club, which was operating without a permit.
“It was an unregulated strip club,” Alvarez. “We enforce the permit rules stringently. They just happened to slip through the cracks.”
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Monday, December 7, 2009
Ciao! Until we meet again..
After covering North Beach for the past few months, I have fell in love with this historical and tourist-loved neighborhood. The neighborhood may have its share of messy politics, but at least it is colorful.
It was interesting covering the neighborhood because most of the people I encountered were highly opinionated and passionate about their beloved North Beach. This neighborhood has so much character and history that it made it overwhelming and intimidating at times to approach longtime residents about controversial issues like the legislation to stop restaurants and bars from obtaining licenses in commercial spaces or the struggle to relocate the North Beach Library Branch to the Triangle.
Many of the residents look fondly back at the neighborhood and recall a time forgotten when Grant was the center of their universe as it was to store owner Jimmy Schein of Schein & Schein on Grant Avenue.
Some of the people I met and interviewed touch on other changes, such as the worldly charm it once held. In my opinion, music, art, literature and of course food are very much still abundant in this neighborhood. It may be filled with more tourists, but this is a tourist-based neighborhood as far as retail shopping goes. San Francisco is known for its amazing views and buildings and North Beach holds access to many of them—Sts. Peter & Paul Church, Coit Tower, the Filbert Steps and St. Francis Assisi Church all visually attainable while lying in Washington Square Park.
North Beach was an amazing neighborhood to cover. It was invigorating and motivating to let me know that maybe I am getting the hang of this. I hope to continue to be a resource for the neighborhood and improve my the information I publish.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Back to the Beats
The Beat Museum on Broadway Street near Romolo Place is easy to miss. It is nestled between Hungry I Club among other adult entertainment clubs. However, if you do get a chance to wander in it is worth the trip.
The museum holds many events year round such as poetry readings, book signings, photo exhibitions and charity benefits all in the Beat spirit. The latest happening, a book signing for tattoo artist, Ed Hardy, will take place in about a week.
Jerry Cimino opened up the museum four years ago in Monterey, but ended up moving to "the birth place of The Beats". Cimino started out using many things from his own personal collection, but as time went on he would receive first edition books, license plates, pins and other Beat generation memorabilia from around the world to add. Some just wanted to make a little extra cash, but most people were happy to donate according to museum owner.
Cimino follows in the beat tradition just as Burroughs mentored Chase, Kerouac and Ginsberg he tries to educate new and old Beat lovers alike.
"I believe older folks have a responsibility to help younger people and it's part of the reason I do what I do," Cimino said.
Art and Recreation in Washington Square Park
On Dec. 6, the Red Umbrella Independent Artists held an exhibition for a few of their members in Washington Square Park. The Red Umbrella is a non-profit organization of artists that display their work in other public spaces mostly in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Gabriele Schwibach was one of the several artists showing their work in the park that day. She enjoys Washington Square Park a lot, but prefers the dependability of other parks like Union Square for business. She has been showing her work with the non-profit for the past three years consecutively.
"Washington Square Park business is very dependent on the weather," said Schwibach the etching and painting focused artist. "The weather was a bit iffy today so there was only an okay turn out."
For a list of show dates or to find out more about the artists, visit the Red Umbrella website.
Gabriele Schwibach was one of the several artists showing their work in the park that day. She enjoys Washington Square Park a lot, but prefers the dependability of other parks like Union Square for business. She has been showing her work with the non-profit for the past three years consecutively.
"Washington Square Park business is very dependent on the weather," said Schwibach the etching and painting focused artist. "The weather was a bit iffy today so there was only an okay turn out."
For a list of show dates or to find out more about the artists, visit the Red Umbrella website.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
The Most Glorious Pizza
The time is 12:30 a.m. The day is Saturday. The place is 542 Green Street between Grant Avenue and Stockton Street. The scene inebriated customers filed out the door of this fine establishment waiting for a square of pizza from this establishment with over 30 years of residency in North Beach. Oh, Golden Boy Pizza with its flashy red hand enticing every one who passes by!
"Even if you are unfortunate enough to end up here on a weekend night, you'll get over by the time the cheese hits your mouth," said Andrea Perez, a San Francisco native.
This pizzeria was started by Peter Sodini in the late 1970s. The Sodini family has branched out to several different restaurants, but Golden Boy Pizza remains a North Beach staple. It is known for its unusual shape of square pizza slices rather than the traditional triangles.
It is also a food establishment where you can find out about local happenings simply by looking at the bulletin board posted near the entrance while you wait for your food. Music is constantly blaring even on a early Sunday afternoon and you're likely to hear a bit of classic rock while a poster of Christopher Walker watches you chow down.
On a weekday afternoon, you're likely to find everyone from the suit and tie crowd of the financial district who walked over on their lunch break to tourists grabbing a quick bite before continuing their exploration. Weekend nights are definitely the most crowded, but the lines move fairly quickly.
You can get a beverage (soda or beer) and a slice for around $5 and their slices are generous from your standard pepperoni to clam garlic. But, just remember, "If you don't see don't ask" as it reads on their menu board because these slices go fast!
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Cafes: A Must in North Beach
An interactive map listing some of the most popular cafes in the neighborhood with locals and tourists. It is essential to try a cappuccino while in North Beach to get the full experience.
View North Beach Cafes in a larger map
View North Beach Cafes in a larger map
"Jan Kerouac Remembered"
On Tuesday, Nov. 10 the San Francisco Public Library sponsored the “Jan Kerouac Remembered” lecture at the North Beach branch. Jan Kerouac was daughter and only child of the famous Beat-era poet, Jack Kerouac. Gerald Nicosia, the event’s host, recently had his biography of Kerouac entitled Jan Kerouac: A Life in Memory published.
During the lecture, different speakers read from the book which prominent people in Kerouac’s life including Brenda Knight, John Cassady and Carl Macki. Kerouac was a post-Beat author that wrote and published two books during her lifetime and one posthumously.
During the event, Kerouac’s strained and almost non-existent relationship with her father was discussed. Her mother’s depression was also mentioned. Kerouac’s battle against kidney disease and her struggle to finish the last book she was working on Parrot Fever was described by colleague and friend, Brenda Knight.
Nicosia made the comment about how Jack Kerouac was compared to St. Paul and Allen Ginsberg was compared to St. Peter during their youth. He went on to say that Jan Kerouac was also saint-like in that she was non-materialistic.
“She knew her life would be short,” Nicosia said. “She didn’t complain. She wanted to do something meaningful.”
During the lecture, different speakers read from the book which prominent people in Kerouac’s life including Brenda Knight, John Cassady and Carl Macki. Kerouac was a post-Beat author that wrote and published two books during her lifetime and one posthumously.
The small group of approximately 25 present was mostly of senior citizens or middle-aged folks. The group gathered in the risen section of library near the Chinese literature. Bright blue chairs were lined up in two columns and there was a podium at the front for contributors to read and speak.
During the event, Kerouac’s strained and almost non-existent relationship with her father was discussed. Her mother’s depression was also mentioned. Kerouac’s battle against kidney disease and her struggle to finish the last book she was working on Parrot Fever was described by colleague and friend, Brenda Knight.
Nicosia made the comment about how Jack Kerouac was compared to St. Paul and Allen Ginsberg was compared to St. Peter during their youth. He went on to say that Jan Kerouac was also saint-like in that she was non-materialistic.
“She knew her life would be short,” Nicosia said. “She didn’t complain. She wanted to do something meaningful.”
Kerouac died in 1966 due to kidney disease, but was survived by half-siblings Katharine, Sharon and David Bowers.
Courtesy of geraldnicosia.com
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Not Your Typical North Beach Cafe
If you are in the mood for great, yet most likely random conversations or perhaps you would enjoy a good people-watching afternoon, Café Trieste just might fill that void in your life. Nestled on Vallejo Street between Grant Avenue and Columbus Avenue this San Francisco landmark has one of the neighborhood’s best plaza areas for shade, relaxation and of course, cappuccino.
Café Trieste has a mixed clientele of tourists, families and the regulars that are there all day, everyday. When you first visit the café, you may be slightly put off by some of the gruff baristas, but after a few visits they will start to recognize your face.
“This is a good place to find someone you know,” said Alex, a café patron. “Some of us have known each other too long.”
This café is a crossroads of sorts. It is always filled with high energy and on nice days, which frequent North Beach, the outside seating is overflowing with customers.
After you order your drink, you can bet on striking up a conversation with a nearby neighbor. If you are not feeling social, you may instead notice how every one seems to know each other and there is nothing stuck-up or overwhelming about the patrons.
“I like how anything goes here,” said Doug Horne, one of the café’s regulars. “You can just hang out and no one bothers you. The staff even hangs out and smokes with the customers.”
This café also holds a lot of history besides being a welcoming establishment. During the beatnik era, many writers, musicians, poets and so forth would hang out and hone their craft of choice here. Although it has become a bit more for a tourist destination, Alex points out several artists sitting around: one a Scottish writer and another is an ex-Chronicle writer.
“You can’t live without coffee,” Alex said. “It’s habitual.”
I suppose you might as well enjoy your caffeine here as much as any other cafe in North Beach, but at least here you won't be bored.
Café Trieste has a mixed clientele of tourists, families and the regulars that are there all day, everyday. When you first visit the café, you may be slightly put off by some of the gruff baristas, but after a few visits they will start to recognize your face.
“This is a good place to find someone you know,” said Alex, a café patron. “Some of us have known each other too long.”
This café is a crossroads of sorts. It is always filled with high energy and on nice days, which frequent North Beach, the outside seating is overflowing with customers.
After you order your drink, you can bet on striking up a conversation with a nearby neighbor. If you are not feeling social, you may instead notice how every one seems to know each other and there is nothing stuck-up or overwhelming about the patrons.
“I like how anything goes here,” said Doug Horne, one of the café’s regulars. “You can just hang out and no one bothers you. The staff even hangs out and smokes with the customers.”
This café also holds a lot of history besides being a welcoming establishment. During the beatnik era, many writers, musicians, poets and so forth would hang out and hone their craft of choice here. Although it has become a bit more for a tourist destination, Alex points out several artists sitting around: one a Scottish writer and another is an ex-Chronicle writer.
“You can’t live without coffee,” Alex said. “It’s habitual.”
I suppose you might as well enjoy your caffeine here as much as any other cafe in North Beach, but at least here you won't be bored.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
First Impressions of Little Italy and Home of the Beatnik Generation
The misty wind and fog of the Lakeside neighborhood does not plague the streets of Green and Columbus as I step off Muni bus #45 into central North Beach. It is almost 11 a.m. and my body is still caffeine-free. I walk down Columbus to Vallejo Street in search of the famous Caffe Trieste for a cappuccino.
People hovering and buzzing inside and outside this coffee shop discuss everything from European summer trips, Americanization in Asia to the difference in musical recording techniques and the latest art shows in the neighborhood.
Ben and Tina, a young married couple sitting at one of the small tables that line the front of Trieste are sipping cappuccinos. Ben comments, “You can’t give up everything…especially this coffee.”
The couple swears by the cappuccinos from this neighborhood staple. Tina points to the famous Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi, which is visible from our table outside.
“I just love the Edwardian architecture down here in the building archways and doors,” Tina tells me. “It is great for photographs.”
Inside Trieste I am approached by a tall, aged man who smiles at me. “Are you covering the neighborhood?”
Alex, a native Brazilian and alleged former bass player at Woodstock has been living in North Beach since 1976. “This neighborhood used to much richer in the amount of writers, poets and musicians,” Alex said. “But at least the coffee hasn’t changed”.
Alex tells me that Paul, the main barista, has been working for Trieste for years, but that the rest of the employees are new. “This used to be a family run business and Papa Johnny used to have bad Italian opera every Saturday.”
“This is a good place to find someone you know,” Alex said. “It’s a crossroads of sorts, if you will.”
Alex spots an old friend, Brent Byer, bartender and bass player for The Bachelors on Monday nights at The Saloon on Grant Avenue, in line and excuses himself to say hello.
One can find The Saloon easily if they head out from Caffe Trieste to the right and down to an alley named Fresno. The Saloon is rather dim and a bit dingy, but it definitely has character. The walls are lined with local music events and CDs ranging from Bruce Breece to The Lucky Strike Band.
There is a stage set up with microphones and a drum set in the back of this small bar. Byer has been playing and working at the Saloon for over twenty years. At one point, he even lived upstairs for about five years.
The Saloon is filled with characters like Big Jeff, Kristen a bartender with over 40 years of experience, and patrons like Jean. They come for the cheap, big drinks and live rockabilly and blues music according to Byer.
“I don’t know what it is about this bar,” Jean said. “But, something happens to people and they let loose.”
According to Byer it is the oldest bar in San Francisco and the sixth oldest in the country. It was opened in the 1880s as a refuge for the sailors that stopped in what was known as the Barbary Coast.
“This isn’t really a scene bar; it’s an institution,” Byer said. “You can find bikers next to lawyers and doctors next to strippers.”
A few other regulars began to trickle in shortly after the doors officially opened at noon. They told me about other notable establishments in the neighborhood—Vesuvio’s, Gino Carlo’s, and Specks. But most of the patrons, who were all middle-aged or older Caucasian-American men, warned me against looking on Broadway Street for anything worthwhile.
“There’s nothing left to check out over there,” Paulie, an older gentlemen wearing a black beret and smoking a cigarette said. “Now these meathead, hip-hop clubs and bars are bringing in outsiders from Vallejo and Fairfield causing problems.”
Broadway Street is typically known for mucking up the culture and history as the dominant businesses on this street include “gentleman clubs”.
Finally, Byer mentions the hardworking and often overlooked inhabitants of North Beach, which now include a large population of Asian immigrants, many of whom, are Chinese or Chinese-American.
“Many of these people started out working out at entry-level jobs for thirty years or more and now they are business owners,” Byer said. “The amount of immigrants that have become neighborhood merchants is amazing.”
A block from Broadway Street, Biordi Art Imports can be located. The owner, Gionfranco Savio of Florence, Italy is another immigrant business owner who makes North Beach a unique neighborhood in San Francisco. Since 1946, Biordi’s has been selling classic Italian ceramics inspired by traditional Renaissance art known as Maiolica ceramics.
Savio recalls the changes that he has experienced in his thirty years of living in the neighborhood. “There has been such an inflation of restaurants that the city passed two ordinances: one declared that no more restaurants could be opened and the other declared that if an owner sold his business the next owner could not have a food or drink chain business open.”
These are the types of changes that have helped maintain North Beach’s history. However, not all changes can be prevented.
“We’ve lost a little bit of foot traffic,” Savio said. “Stockton Street started being owned by the Chinese and all strange looking buses that quack around the streets”.
If one walks down Stockton Street towards Washington Square Park, he or she will pass restaurants, gelato and candy shops, an old hat shop and finally the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club. Frank Villani, a member of the club’s board of directors, is lingering outside the front door.
“During World War II, we had to take the ‘Italian’ out of our name to prevent any acts of violence on certain ethnic groups, such as the Italians.”
The club was established in 1918 and was originally located on Powell Street. It has been at its current location since 1936. It boasts an impressive number of members at 620 and is known for throwing such events as the Festa Coloniale Italiana, Bocce Tournament and Stratuto Race.
The halls of the club are filled with pictures of famous Italians like politician Rudy Giuliani, two-time World Series winning baseball star and member Gino Campsi, and long-time member and filmmaker Francis Ford Coppala.
Although it is a men’s only club, I was greeted with hospitality and kindness from every person I approached from Romano Marcucci, barista extraordinaire to the club administrator, Rich Denney Baldoni.
“This is the best place to work,” said Martha Crothers, a long-time kitchen volunteer, during my tour of the club. “I started peeling onions and potatoes here for nothing fifteen years ago. Now I help organize and do inventory for the members after big events.”
It is about three o’clock when Villani, who is in charge of maintenance, completes his Monday check-in. He takes me upstairs to the balcony before we depart.
“Look at this view,” Villani said as we admire Sts. Peter and Paul Church and the scene of people sunbathing, eating and playing music below in Washington Square Park. “It is priceless.”
I hop back on bus 45 where I will pass through Chinatown and Union Square to get to the Powell BART Station. North Beach has definitely changed over the past thirty to fifty years since it was the beatnik capital and then home to punks, poets and paupers. But, it still retains some magic yet to be found if you are willing to seek it out.
People hovering and buzzing inside and outside this coffee shop discuss everything from European summer trips, Americanization in Asia to the difference in musical recording techniques and the latest art shows in the neighborhood.
Ben and Tina, a young married couple sitting at one of the small tables that line the front of Trieste are sipping cappuccinos. Ben comments, “You can’t give up everything…especially this coffee.”
The couple swears by the cappuccinos from this neighborhood staple. Tina points to the famous Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi, which is visible from our table outside.
“I just love the Edwardian architecture down here in the building archways and doors,” Tina tells me. “It is great for photographs.”
Inside Trieste I am approached by a tall, aged man who smiles at me. “Are you covering the neighborhood?”
Alex, a native Brazilian and alleged former bass player at Woodstock has been living in North Beach since 1976. “This neighborhood used to much richer in the amount of writers, poets and musicians,” Alex said. “But at least the coffee hasn’t changed”.
Alex tells me that Paul, the main barista, has been working for Trieste for years, but that the rest of the employees are new. “This used to be a family run business and Papa Johnny used to have bad Italian opera every Saturday.”
“This is a good place to find someone you know,” Alex said. “It’s a crossroads of sorts, if you will.”
Alex spots an old friend, Brent Byer, bartender and bass player for The Bachelors on Monday nights at The Saloon on Grant Avenue, in line and excuses himself to say hello.
One can find The Saloon easily if they head out from Caffe Trieste to the right and down to an alley named Fresno. The Saloon is rather dim and a bit dingy, but it definitely has character. The walls are lined with local music events and CDs ranging from Bruce Breece to The Lucky Strike Band.
There is a stage set up with microphones and a drum set in the back of this small bar. Byer has been playing and working at the Saloon for over twenty years. At one point, he even lived upstairs for about five years.
The Saloon is filled with characters like Big Jeff, Kristen a bartender with over 40 years of experience, and patrons like Jean. They come for the cheap, big drinks and live rockabilly and blues music according to Byer.
“I don’t know what it is about this bar,” Jean said. “But, something happens to people and they let loose.”
According to Byer it is the oldest bar in San Francisco and the sixth oldest in the country. It was opened in the 1880s as a refuge for the sailors that stopped in what was known as the Barbary Coast.
“This isn’t really a scene bar; it’s an institution,” Byer said. “You can find bikers next to lawyers and doctors next to strippers.”
A few other regulars began to trickle in shortly after the doors officially opened at noon. They told me about other notable establishments in the neighborhood—Vesuvio’s, Gino Carlo’s, and Specks. But most of the patrons, who were all middle-aged or older Caucasian-American men, warned me against looking on Broadway Street for anything worthwhile.
“There’s nothing left to check out over there,” Paulie, an older gentlemen wearing a black beret and smoking a cigarette said. “Now these meathead, hip-hop clubs and bars are bringing in outsiders from Vallejo and Fairfield causing problems.”
Broadway Street is typically known for mucking up the culture and history as the dominant businesses on this street include “gentleman clubs”.
Finally, Byer mentions the hardworking and often overlooked inhabitants of North Beach, which now include a large population of Asian immigrants, many of whom, are Chinese or Chinese-American.
“Many of these people started out working out at entry-level jobs for thirty years or more and now they are business owners,” Byer said. “The amount of immigrants that have become neighborhood merchants is amazing.”
A block from Broadway Street, Biordi Art Imports can be located. The owner, Gionfranco Savio of Florence, Italy is another immigrant business owner who makes North Beach a unique neighborhood in San Francisco. Since 1946, Biordi’s has been selling classic Italian ceramics inspired by traditional Renaissance art known as Maiolica ceramics.
Savio recalls the changes that he has experienced in his thirty years of living in the neighborhood. “There has been such an inflation of restaurants that the city passed two ordinances: one declared that no more restaurants could be opened and the other declared that if an owner sold his business the next owner could not have a food or drink chain business open.”
These are the types of changes that have helped maintain North Beach’s history. However, not all changes can be prevented.
“We’ve lost a little bit of foot traffic,” Savio said. “Stockton Street started being owned by the Chinese and all strange looking buses that quack around the streets”.
If one walks down Stockton Street towards Washington Square Park, he or she will pass restaurants, gelato and candy shops, an old hat shop and finally the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club. Frank Villani, a member of the club’s board of directors, is lingering outside the front door.
“During World War II, we had to take the ‘Italian’ out of our name to prevent any acts of violence on certain ethnic groups, such as the Italians.”
The club was established in 1918 and was originally located on Powell Street. It has been at its current location since 1936. It boasts an impressive number of members at 620 and is known for throwing such events as the Festa Coloniale Italiana, Bocce Tournament and Stratuto Race.
The halls of the club are filled with pictures of famous Italians like politician Rudy Giuliani, two-time World Series winning baseball star and member Gino Campsi, and long-time member and filmmaker Francis Ford Coppala.
Although it is a men’s only club, I was greeted with hospitality and kindness from every person I approached from Romano Marcucci, barista extraordinaire to the club administrator, Rich Denney Baldoni.
“This is the best place to work,” said Martha Crothers, a long-time kitchen volunteer, during my tour of the club. “I started peeling onions and potatoes here for nothing fifteen years ago. Now I help organize and do inventory for the members after big events.”
It is about three o’clock when Villani, who is in charge of maintenance, completes his Monday check-in. He takes me upstairs to the balcony before we depart.
“Look at this view,” Villani said as we admire Sts. Peter and Paul Church and the scene of people sunbathing, eating and playing music below in Washington Square Park. “It is priceless.”
I hop back on bus 45 where I will pass through Chinatown and Union Square to get to the Powell BART Station. North Beach has definitely changed over the past thirty to fifty years since it was the beatnik capital and then home to punks, poets and paupers. But, it still retains some magic yet to be found if you are willing to seek it out.
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